Muscat is a city among the most important on the Sea of Arabia, having held this status and position from the 11th century AD up to its occupation by the Portuguese.", wrote Omani historian, Sheikh Salem bin Hamoud al Siabi. Muscat is divided into six wilayats and is Oman's financial and trade centre. Hamad bin Said took Muscat as Oman's capital from Rustaq between 1779 - 1792 and this has never since been contested. The shining prosperous city of today has amongst its successes: a major port, Mina Qaboos; Seeb International Airport and international airline Oman Air; its own stock market, the Muscat Securities Market; a TV and radio network, Oman TV and Radio; state-of-the-art hospitals; and superior educational establishments.
However, this has not always been the case and prior to Sultan Qaboos' accession to the throne, the Oman of the early 20th century to 1970 told a very different story. Curfews were imposed on Muscat's denizens and everyone had to be within the city walls by sunset, when the cannons would fire their summons. Trades were carried out using antiquated tools and methods and cars were practically non-existent, as the road network was nothing but dirt tracks. Most people walked everywhere and a journey from Muscat City to Ruwi could take up to four hours.
Today, under the leadership of His Majesty, Sultan Qaboos, Muscat has improved beyond recognition, but has never lost its pride in its heritage and culture. The capital area is a prime example of intelligent and aesthetic development, blending the ancient and modern.
Muscat was known as the 'Governorate of the Capital' from 1960 - 1970. Under Royal Decree 30/1988, it came to be known as the 'Governorate of Muscat' and the wilayats of Muttrah, Seeb, Bausher, Al Amerat and Quriyat united to form the Muscat region. The wilayat of Muscat runs along the Gulf of Oman across a mountain range stretching from Bandar Najih to the village of Sifa on the borders of Quriyat. Muscat city was built at the outset of Arab migrations and the destruction of the Maa'rib Dam. According to Omani historian Ulema Nureddin al Salemi, Muscat was populated by Arab Omanis who were originally from Yemen.
The forts of Al Jalali and Al Mirani are the capital's most prominent landmarks and were built in the 16th century AD.Years ago, Muscat was walled in. However, the wall is now replaced by a stone moat, which the Omanis call al hosn or the fortification. Parts of the original wall still remain in which are located the three main access gates to the city: Bab al Matha'eeb, the Greater Gate and the Lesser Gate. There are a number of beautiful beaches in the Muscat area, at Al Jissah, Al Khayran and Al Sifa. Fishing is one of the traditional occupations in Muscat along with sewing fishing nets, basket weaving, tree felling, herding and folk medicine, in particular, bone setting. Famous sites include His Majesty's colourful and elegant Al Alam Palace and Al Bustan Palace Hotel, a building of great eminence throughout the Arabian Peninsula.
Each year, the Muscat Festival draws crowds of visitors to enjoy the exhibitions and events which the Muscat Municipality organises. This year, the festival will run from October 20 to November 16 with the theme, "Bridging Oman with the Cultures of the World". The main events will be held in the Shati A'Seeb Park, with other activities taking place in and around the Muscat district. Visitors will be treated to local and international folklore shows, children's and adults' theatre, poetry evenings, music concerts, modern and traditional fashion shows, painting and photography exhibitions and circus shows. For sports enthusiasts there will be beach and aquatic competitions, international cricket and hot air ballooning. There will also be a four-wheel drive adventure around Oman - "Quest for the Unknown". At the international food counter, culinary delights from over 20 countries will be available and the Omani Heritage Village will have displays of traditional Omani social and cultural activities. Timings and dates of events will be published in the local press.
The wilayat of Seeb occupies a narrow strip of coastline along the Gulf of Oman for a distance of 50km. Seeb has a number of ancient monuments, but is perhaps distinguished by its modern landmarks situated on the large highway roundabouts, and the Seeb International Airport. The wilayat is famous for its bullfighting, which is a bloodless sport and does not involve injury to the animals. Spectators assemble at a venue outside the town and form a 'human chain'. Competitors race two bulls, the sport being umpired by one known as the 'Colonel'. The bull winning the race is feted throughout the wilayat and will often fetch a better price at market.
Muttrah is home to Oman's ancient trading port and its modern counterpart, Mina Qaboos. The Muttrah Souq was originally the principal source of many diverse goods transported to the other markets in the country. The wilayat was once a particularly fertile spot, planted with date palms and watered by the afalaj (aqueducts) and sweet water wells. The crops were harvested to supply the visiting ships and the local population. Muttrah Fort is one of the most prominent of the 13 forts scattered about the area. It has six towers built by the Portuguese during their occupation and was the seat of government under the rule of Sultan Said bin Sultan al Busaidi. Sur Ruwi, one of the surrounding walls contains a gate within, which is believed to be Muscat's first access gate on the northern interior side.Muttrah has many public gardens and picnic areas, one of the most popular being Riyam Park, which is distinguished by its huge incense burner viewpoint, located at the top of a cliff. It also has three museums: the National Museum, Bait al Zubair and Bait al Falaj (the Armed Forces Museum). Traditional industries include: perfumery, weaving, textiles, silver and gold crafting and fishing. The area has a number of hotels, some of which are managed by international chains, such as Intercontinental and Sheraton.
The wilayat of Bausher is situated between the sea and the mountains, southwest of Muttrah. Archaeological evidence indicates that Bausher has a history which dates back to 2000BC. The Battle of the Two Wastelands was fought here, when its army defeated that of the Omani Azd. The name Bausher seems to come from abu sharr meaning the 'iniquitous one', a direct reference to the great unrest which was witnessed here centuries ago. One of the most famous places in Bausher is the Bait Al Kebir (the Great House) which was owned by Thuria bint Mohammed bin Azan, a wonderful lady who was known throughout the area for her kind and generous deeds. It is now open to the public since restoration in 1992. Other tourist sites include the Ain Ghala spring, Sultan Qaboos Sports Complex, Qurum Natural Park, Qurum beach, the Natural History Museum and the Children's Museum. Agriculture is Bausher's main livelihood and utilises the warm waters of the 43 afalaj in the area to irrigate the citrus fruit groves and date palm plantations. There are several 5-star hotels in the district, including the Intercontinental, Radisson SAS and Holiday Inn.
Quriyat occupies a narrow strip of coastline along the Arabian Gulf. Its name comes from qariyat meaning 'villages'. The first settlers arrived in Quriyat before the emergence of Islam in Oman. Many of its inhabitants retain traditional customs, and pursue ancient crafts such as blacksmithing, saddlework, boat building, camel rearing and repairing firearms. The wilayat has extremely dramatic terrain, through which modern roads have been cut, with somewhat intimidating hairpin bends. Some villages are high up in the mountains and are completely inaccessible, except by plane. There are three strongholds in the area: Quriyat Fort, built around 200 years ago; Al Sahel fort on the coast; and Dagh Fort built during the Portuguese occupation. There are many natural beauty spots, both on the coast and inland. Wadi Daykah is a tranquil valley with fresh, clear running water, a favourite spot for locals and tourists alike. Bimma, Fans and Dhabbab are some of the pristine beaches to visit. Every variety of date palm grown in the Sultanate is found in the Quriyat district, together with groves of mango, citrus fruits, papayas, guavas, mulberries and lotus fruits.
The wilayat of Al Amerat is situated south of Muttrah and southwest of Quriyat. In the past, it has been known as Al Fatah and Al Mutahadamat. There are a number of tourist sites here, such as Wadi Sireen Nature Reserve, Wadi al Meeh, Ghar Hadhadha Cave, Jebel Saqif and the Safah al Bab well at the foot of the mountain. Date plantations and mango groves are grown here and watered by the 61 afalaj. Local livelihoods include goat herding, weaving and red ochre quarrying.
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